Neue Studie: H&M gefährdet Textilarbeiter in Bangladesch

Der schwedische Modekonzern H&M hat sich darauf verpflichtet, Textilarbeiterinnen und -arbeiter in Bangladesch besser vor Gefahren zu schützen. Doch: Nur die Hälfte der Massnahmen wurde umgesetzt. Das Gespräch mit der Vertreterin der «Clean Clothes Campaign» und was H&M dazu sagt.

Eine junge Frau sitzt in einer Textilfabrik in der Nähe von Dhaka, Bangladesch, an ihrem Arbeitsplatz vor einer Nähmaschine.
Bildlegende: Eine junge Frau in einer Fabrik in der Nähe von Dhaka. Viele Textilarbeiterinnen und -arbeiter in Bangladesch verdienen weniger als 50 Euro pro Monat. Keystone

1138 Tote, mehr als 2500 Verletzte - der Einsturz der Fabrik Rana Plaza in Bangladesch vor rund zweieinhalb Jahren war das grösste Unglück in der Geschichte der globalen Textilindustrie. Rund 200 Textilfirmen unterschrieben darauf den «Accord on Fire and Building Safety» - ein rechtlich verbindliches Abkommen, das die Feuer- und Gebäude-Sicherheit in Fabriken in Bangladesch verbessern soll. Erstunterzeichner dieses Dokuments war das schwedische Modeunternehmen H&M. Eine kürzlich veröffentlichte Studie der «Clean Clothes Campaign» zeigt nun: H&M ist bei der Umsetzung der Massnahmen massiv im Rückstand.

Dass die Verbesserungen in Bangladesch sehr harzig vorangehen - das hört man nicht zum ersten Mal.
Was ist also überhaupt neu an dieser Studie? Die Frage geht an Silvie Lang. Sie arbeitet bei der NGO «Erklärung von Bern» und ist Koordinatorin der «Clean Clothes Campaign» in der Schweiz.

Den vollständigen Bericht in englischer Sprache finden Sie hier.


Auf Anfrage von Radio SRF 4 News hat H&M folgendes Statement zur Studie abgegeben:

Any delay of the work of the Bangladesh Accord on fire and building safety is of great concern to us; however we do not recognize how we are portrayed in the report. H&M believes that the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety is an important initiative. We are convinced of the positive impact of the work being done within the Accord and that it will reach its long-term aim: to make the textile industry in Bangladesh safer for the workers. H&M is one out of around 200 brands who has signed the Accord, and we have been actively contributing to its progress since the beginning.

We have taken required measurements and worked out solutions for all financial support requests together with our suppliers and are cooperating closely with them to remediate according to corrective and tailor-made action plans. As our presence in Bangladesh is long-term, it contributes not only financially to the individual factory, but also to the development of the textile industry as well as to the Bangladeshi community as a whole. We support our suppliers with what they appreciate most: long-term business and growth opportunities.

H&M is only producing in factories that meet the Accord requirements for operation and we see progress amongst factories where we are lead brand. Our own internal follow-up data shows that the factories where we are lead brand have completed nearly 60% of all required improvements and scheduled for validation by the Accord. We are experiencing some delays to work being carried out to initial timelines. Any delay of the process is of great concern to us; however, it is of utmost importance that measures taken are according to the high quality standards agreed between the Bangladesh Government and the Accord/Alliance. Some technical and structural challenges require more time and access to technology not available in Bangladesh. Delays are also due to heavy workload for the Accord inspection experts dealing with these complex issues.

H&M has a staff of nearly 600 in Bangladesh, who work full time on all aspects of production including the Accord. We will continue our long-term investment by fully supporting our suppliers in improving and upgrading their production facilities to safer and higher international standards as well as their management capabilities, allowing them to become competitive in a sustainable way.

For more information you can also read the article we've published in our Newsroom.

Autor/in: Melanie Pfändler